Men’s Fashion Tips – Wardrobe Tips for Challenging Body Types

Let’s not beat around the bush, nobody’s perfect. We all have our set of challenges when it comes to finding clothes we find flattering on ourselves, otherwise known as dressing for your body type. But if chosen well, the right clothes can hide the features we don’t like about ourselves and accentuate our best ones. Here I have outlined some (certainly not all) fashion rules to live by when dressing for body types that might be a bit challenging. Of course there are exceptions to rules, but keep these tips in mind when putting a wardrobe or an outfit together.

How’s the weather up there?

Particularly tall guys should say away from vertical stripes including pinstripes since they tend to accentuate height. Horizontal stripes and windowpane plaids are more flattering patterns. If you are thin to boot, wearing fabrics that cling is a bad idea, but wearing baggy clothes also brings attention to your svelt physique. Being tall and thin myself I have always been challenged with looking for the perfect fit in shirts, trousers, sweaters and suits. I have found that wearing shirts that are slightly fitted with spread collars and trousers that are straight in the leg, not tapered in any way, work best. Also, sweaters with a closer fit to the body, but not fitted are more flattering. And since suits with three buttons tend to lengthen the body, stick with one and two buttons.

Are you vertically challenged?

Short guys should avoid cuffed trousers, long suit jackets, and loud patterns. You don’t want to bring attention to your smaller stature. Pinstripes and other stripes (but not too bold) and dark solid colors are your best bet since they visually lengthen the body. Also, two and three buttoned suits with long lapels will give you a flattering, longer silhouette. And remember, when buttoning your suit leave the top button on two and three button suits undone since this will give the illusion of being taller. When it comes to ties, avoid Windsor and double Windsor knots – in other words stick with small knots. This will help you avoid looking like a kid.

Do you have junk in the trunk?

Heavyset men shouldn’t wear bold patterns of any sort. Pinstripes and solid colors, especially dark ones, are your friends. Bulky fabrics such as tweeds should be avoided when it comes to suits, and softer wools such as gabardines and super 100’s should be embraced. Do wear suits with peaked lapels since they carry they eye upwards. Shirts with pointed collars are also more flattering. Some say that suspenders are better than belts, but I’ll let you decide.

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Men’s Suits – 6 Common Questions About Men’s Suits Answered

Men’s suits – I had the privilege to chat with Kim Johnson Gross, co-founder of Chic Simple Ltd and former fashion director of Esquire and Fashion Editor of Town & Country. Kim has also written monthly columns in InStyle magazine, and appeared on numerous television and talk shows as a leading consumer authority. During our conversation I thought I would present to her questions I have received from readers on the subject of men’s suits and this is the result of our conversation.

Do you know where the “top 2 buttoned buttoned, lowest button undone” style originated and why?
Edward the VII was too large for his vest so he unbuttoned the bottom button and since he was king, all followed in his footsteps. This is one of the first known references to this trend. However, it is also a designer thing and personal preference.
If you are shorter, unbuttoning the top button versus the bottom will give the illusion of being taller.

What is the case for a 4 button suit? Is the 4 button suit in style any longer?
Four button suits are not seen much these days and certainly aren’t a suit one would buy their first or second suit. It is more of a fashion suit, not a classic style. Also keep in mind that four button suits really look best on those that are tall and slim.

Does a man have to be a certain age to wear a double breasted suit?
No. But unless it is really your style, stay away from the double breasted suit. Again, not an appropriate first or second suit.

Are suit vests a thing of the past?
Suit vests are for dandies, but also seen in English, western, and evening looks. Not really seeing suit vests otherwise.

Are suits with no vents in the back a dated look?
Vents are definitely more European and shapelier. They are also a symbol of better tailoring.

Are pleats on trousers a bad idea?
First thing is that flat fronted trousers are always more flattering no matter what your size and age. Pleats bring attention to that area of the body.

A general note regarding suits:
Invest in a good suit—this is where your wardrobe dollars are best spent. Choose neutral colors like navy or gray. Browns and olives can be tricky and black suits had their moment, but are still great for evening or formal occasions. Also, suits should be comfortable, drape well, and move with you. And always keep in mind that richness in fabrics and good tailoring never go out of style.

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Men’s Pure New Wool Suit


Selvedge: Super 110s’ Pure New Wool Made in Italy.
These suits are carefully constructed from year-round light weight pure new wool. Classic 2 button single breasted with single vent styling. Your choice of plain front or pleated front trousers. Interior has 2 breast pockets. Both pieces fully lined.
Colors: Black, Blue, Charcoal, Dark Blue, Dark Navy, Light Gray, Brown. See Swatches
Style: Custom tailor fully-lined single breasted 2 button, rear vent, plain front pants, single rear pocket.

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Men’s Merino Wool Cashmere Suit


Selvedge: Super 120s’ Merino Wool Cashmere Made in England.
Sharp lined, aggressive stance and fashion forward look. Larger in the shoulder than a traditional suit, a tad longer coat. World-class fabrications. Put it all together and you have a winning formula for fresh, innovative clothing that never looks dull.
Colors: Black, Charcoal, Navy, Teal, Gray, Stone.
See Swatches
Style: Custom tailor fully-lined single breasted two button fastening, rear vent, 4 button working sleeve cuff, fully-lined. Single pleat pants with slanted pocket, single rear pocket, lined to knee, belt loops.

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Men’s Velvet Jacket

Selvedge: Private.
Softly tailored with a graceful longer length, our velvet jacket flatters you with its soothingly soft texture and lightweight.
Colors: Black, Silver, French Blue, Green, Purple, Chocolate, Hot Pink, Lemon. See Swatches
Style: Custom tailor fully-lined single breasted two button coat without vent, notch lapel, piped pocket with flap, four button vented sleeve, fully lined.

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Men’ s Cool Wool Suit

Selvedge: Super 150s’ Cool Wool Regency Huddersfield Made in England.
Cool wool redefined with light weight. Ideal for young executives.
Colors available: Black, Charcoal, Gray, Teal, Navy, Taup.
See Swatches
Style: Custom tailor 3/4 length cool wool suit with fully-lined single breasted coat, two button fastening, no vent, peak lapel, four button surgeon’s cuff, piped pocket with flap, both pieces fully-lined, double pleated or plain front trouser, zip fly closure, one back pocket, cuff.

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New Clothesource Business Profiles make for easier apparel sourcing

Clothesource, the UK’s leading consultant in apparel sourcing, has recently been inundated with requests from apparel buyers eager to find alternative sources to China.

Clothesource’s CEO Mike Flanagan said “China has never been the cheap – in four out of five product categories it has for some time been outside the world’s top ten cheapest suppliers. But now that prices are starting to rise, we are finding people need good quality information to help them to find alternative or supplementary sources.”

The new range of Clothesource Business Profiles provide the essential information about manufacturing capabilities around the world in each major apparel category. “And with Western markets softening”, added Flanagan, “more and more textile businesses in developing markets are looking for help in identifying their competitors’ strength”

For the thirty-three major garment categories, Clothesource shows where the world’s major apparel importing countries – Japan, the US and EU – buy their clothing from, how supplier countries’ share has evolved, how supplier countries’ price competitiveness varies between countries, and how countries’ price competitiveness has changed since quotas were abolished at the end of 2004.

Information in each category is provided graphically, as well as in hard data. There are seven separate profiles, covering:

Casual Outerwear (Men’s casual jackets, Track suits etc and Women’s Casual Jackets)
Hosiery (Socks and Tights/pantyhose)
Intimate/Swim (Men’s Swim, Women’s Swim, Bras/Corsetry, Knitted Briefs, Woven Briefs, Panties, Slips + petticoats, Women’s Nightwear, and Men’s Nightwear
Knitwear (Sweaters, Women’s Knit Blouses, Men’s Knitted Shirts, T Shirts, Women’s Knit Trousers)
Tailoring (Men’s Coats, Men’s Formal Jackets, Men’s Suits, Women’s Coats, Women’s Formal Jackets, Women’s Suits)
Tops and Dresses (Men’s Woven Shirts, Women’s Dresses, and Woven Blouses)
Trousers and Skirts (Men’s Jeans, Women’s Jeans, Men’s Woven Trousers, Women’s Skirts, Women’s Trousers)

Clothesource Business Profiles are available at GBP450 each from www.clothesource.com
# # #

Clothesource Limited, based in Charlbury, Oxford, UK and Bucharest, Romania, provides the world’s leading apparel retailers, brands and exporters with quality control and market intelligence on apparel sourcing and exporting

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Men’s Mink Cashmere Suit

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Selvedge: Super 140s’ Mink Cashmere Regency Huddersfield Made in England.
These striped mink cashmere suits are heavier than tropical wool. They are perfect for a wedding, ideal for a fancy luncheon. But you can wear them at night as well. These two piece suits feature the two-button jacket silhouette.
Colors available: Black, Gray, Navy, Charcoal. Also available on bold stripes. See Swatches
Style: Custom tailor striped mink casshmere suit with two button fastening, notch lapel, piped pockets with flap, upper welted pocket, three buttons at each cuff, rear vent, fully lined. The trouser has plain front, double rear pocket, 1.25″ belt loops and is lined to the knee, zip fly closure.

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Chef’s uniform

The traditional chef’s uniform, including toque (traditional hat), white double breasted jacket, and checked pants are instantly recognized by most members of the Western world, especially in this day of television’s celebrity chefs. What isn’t obvious is the origins, generally for practical reasons, of each item.

The double breasted jacket can be reversed to hide stains. Its thick cotton cloth protects from the heat of stove and oven and protects from splattering of boiling liquids. Traditionally knotted cloth buttons were used because they could stand up to the frequent washing and survive contact with hot items without melting.

The hound’s tooth checked pattern frequent on trousers serves to camouflage minor stains. The use of white for other pieces of clothing, especially by highly visible head chefs, is intended to denote cleanliness.

An apron is an obviously useful piece of equipment used to shield the rest of the wearer’s garments from food splatters and stains.

The toque (chef’s hat) dates back to the 16th century when hats were common in many trades. Different heights of hats indicate rank within a kitchen. The symbolism of the 100 folds of the toque are said to represent the many different ways a chef knows to cook an egg.

Some modern chefs have put their own distinct spin on the traditional uniform. Color, pattern and design changes all contribute to the unique personality of these chefs. But the traditional, practical, clothing of the chef still remains a standard in the food industry.

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Leather jacket

tan leather jacketleather jacket
A leather jacket is a type of clothing, a jacket made of leather. The jacket has usually a brown, dark grey or black color. Leather jackets can be styled in a variety of ways, and different versions have been associated with different subcultures. For instance, the leather jacket has often been associated with bikers, military aviators, rock stars, punks, metalheads, and police, who have worn versions designed for protective purposes and occasionally for their potentially intimidating appearance.

In the 20th century the leather jacket achieved iconic status, in major part through film. Examples include Marlon Brando’s Johnny Strabler character in The Wild One (1953), Honor Blackman as Cathy Gale in The Avengers, and Michael Pare in Eddie and the Cruisers (1983). As such, these all served to popularize leather jackets in American and British youth from the “greaser” subculture in the 1950s and early 1960s. A later depiction of this style of jacket and time was “The Fonz” in the television series “Happy Days” which was produced in the 1970s and 1980s but depicted life in the 1950s and 1960s. The Fonz’s leather jacket is now housed in the Smithsonian Institution, and the Grease movie duo has also since popularized leather jackets with their T-Birds male clique. Back then a leather jacket would have cost between $7 to $20 which was expensive considering the time.

The leather jackets worn by aviators and members of the military were brown and frequently called “Bomber jackets” as seen on numerous stars in the 1940s and 1950s such as Jimmy Stewart in the 1957 film, Night Passage. The brown leather jacket has been a de rigueur part of the wardrobe of a Hollywood adventurer, from Gary Cooper in For Whom the Bell Tolls to Harrison Ford in the Indiana Jones film series. While the black leather jacket fad ended in the early 1960s, bomber jackets, often with sheepskin collars, have remained popular. They can be seen in the 1986 film, Top Gun.

The rock star tan leather jacketThere are many more examples of iconic leather jackets worn in popular culture, such as the one worn by the T-800 character of The Terminator movies and the longer ¾ length trench coat style worn by action heroes such as Steven Seagal, and Keanu Reeves and Laurence Fishburne in The Matrix films. Another example is the leather jackets worn by Brad Pitt in the movie Fight Club, where the antagonist Tyler Durden constantly appears with different variations of his ‘red’ leather jacket. Other famous leather jacket icons include those worn by members of the Black Panthers in the 1960s and 1970s, punk rock groups such as the Ramones, the Libertines, members of heavy metal subcultures, etc. In most pop culture examples, the jackets are worn by people cultivating an intimidating and potentially violent or rebellious image. The tan leather jacket in particular has become very popular with the Brit Pop and Indie music image and culture and is famously worn by people such as Kelly Jones of the Stereophonics.

There is a substantial difference between leather jackets made for fashionable purposes and those worn for protection (in activities such as motorcycle riding). Leather jackets designed for protective use are safety equipment and are heavier, thicker, and often equipped with armor, thus becoming a very practical item of clothing regardless of the symbolism invested in them by popular culture. A leather jacket primarily designed for fashion purposes is not likely to be of much use in a motorcycle accident.

Leather jackets were also popular with the Russian Bolsheviks and were nearly a uniform for the Commissars during the Russian Civil War and later for the members of the Cheka. This practice is said to have been initiated by Yakov Sverdlov.

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